El Salvador

From Belize, I hopped across Guatemala to El Salvador, the smallest country in Central America. Excluding seven Caribbean islands, El Salvador has the highest population density in the Western hemisphere. So, it’s no surprise that its capital city, San Salvador, is crowded. Its downtown commercial center is a chaotic and colorful street market that covers twenty blocks. From dawn until late at night, venders, hawkers, shoppers and children cover the sidewalks and spill into the streets. Cars, buses, motorcycles and pickups attempt to navigate through the crowds. Gridlock is inevitable.

San Salvador’s street market reminds me of the great markets of Africa or Asia. Everything is for sale. Fruits, meats, baked goods, clothing, electronics, car parts, bicycles, appliances, farm tools, barbers and hot cooked meals can all be found here. The sights, smells and sounds are delicious.

The prices are cheap, too. I had breakfast, lunch and a haircut for $7.

I was surprised by how clean this city is and how safe it feels. Although the streets are packed with people every day, there was little litter. Armed police and soldiers relaxing on many of the street corners may have something to do with the orderliness of this city.

One thing I didn’t see in San Salvador is tourists. Although there may be fancy beach resorts on the Pacific coast and luxurious ecolodges in the jungle, San Salvador is gritty, real and untouched by foreigners. Only about 10% of the San Salvadorans speak English. I got lots of practice speaking Español.

Interspersed though San Salvaldor’s downtown are early 20th century cathedrals, monuments and the National Palace. These are relics from the days when El Salvador was a wealthy exporter of indigo, gold, silver and coffee. Though these buildings have seen better days, they’re well maintained and open to the public. While touring the National Palace, I got a history lesson.  I hadn’t known that El Salvador joined Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua in a union named the Federal Republic of Central America in 1823.  Once upon a time, these five countries were united.

My visit to El Salvador was only three days. I planned a short visit based partly on El Salvador’s bad reputation due to its civil war in the 80’s, statistics on street gangs and a high homicide rate.  I’ve been in more dangerous places. San Salvador seems like a safe and hospitable place. I didn’t sense any street tension. I met friendly, kind people. I might come back here sometime for a longer visit. This would be an excellent place to take Spanish lessons.

Entering El Salvador, I wasn’t asked for any Covid documentation, not even my vaccination card. I only had to pay a $12 arrival tax. The day before my departure from San Salvador, it was easy to get an inexpensive Covid antigen test ($25) for my journey to the next country.  I wonder if I’ll be asked to show it.

In my tally of all the countries that I’ve visited, El Salvador is number 160. Only 33 more to go!