Belize
Welcome to the start of a new travel blog. For the next two or three months, I’ll be plotting a course through four Caribbean countries and a dozen island territories. My adventure starts in Belize. Why? Although I’ve logged six months wandering around Central America, I’ve never stepped into its two smallest countries: Belize and El Salvador. Let’s start with ten days in Belize.
From Belize City, I drove a rental car to the Black Rock Lodge near the Guatemalan border. This ecolodge came highly recommended. It’s located in a spectacular valley hidden in the hills of western Belize. The photos on their website will show you how stunningly beautiful this lodge is. Bird watchers, hikers and swimmers love this place. So did I.
My main reason for visiting western Belize was to see Tikal, which is in Guatemala, just across the border from the Black Rock Lodge and the town of San Ignacio. For years, I’ve wanted to see these Mayan ruins, to compare them with Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Copan. Tikal is one of the oldest Mayan archaeological sites. It was one of the largest and most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Mayan civilization. You can tell from the smile on my face how pleased I am to finally get here.
There’s another reason why I wanted to see this remarkable site. If you saw the first Star Wars movie (1977) you may recall the scene where the Millennium Falcon swoops down to the secret rebel base on the fourth moon of Yavin. From here, Luke Skywalker took off to destroy the Death Star. It gave me goosebumps to gawk at this celebrated film location.
Belize is mostly known for its offshore islands, its beaches and its barrier reef. Belize’s reef is the second-largest coral reef in the world and one of the most sought-after locations for diving, snorkeling, sailing, and fishing. I opted to visit the top tourist destination in Belize: San Pedro town on Ambergris Caye. Tropic Air flew me there on a Cessna Grand Caravan. I’ve been told that this airline has an excellent safety record. It was a welcome change of pace to fly in an airplane with just twelve seats and one propeller: A perfect aircraft for short flights within Belize.
San Pedro is a gritty beach town with three narrow streets lined with bars, restaurants, resorts and shops — from the cheap to the luxurious. I splurged and stayed at Ramon’s Village Resort. It was beautifully landscaped. The service was excellent. The linens were clean. The wifi worked most of the time. The dive shop had thatched roofs.
Most noticeable in the town of San Pedro are the golf carts. They’re everywhere. The streets are crowded with them day and night. Although San Pedro would be ideal for pedestrians or bicycles, everyone drives noisy, gas-powered golf carts. If I’d had lunch with the mayor, I’d have suggested that he find an environmentally sound way to solve San Pedro’s transport issues.
As a tourist destination, San Pedro isn’t bad. Eight miles away is a wonderful escape called Secret Beach — which won’t be secret for long. There’re also some colorful open-air bars that serve the best tropical rum drinks.
All in all, Belize is pleasant. It’s convenient from the states. It’s less developed and less expensive than Cancun. The people are all friendly and the towns feel safe. Now, it’s time for me to continue my journey.
With each stop along this journey, I expect to encounter a different set of Covid rules. For Belize, I found contradicting information about health requirements. After consulting websites for United Airlines, the US state department and the Belize government, I concluded that at a minimum I would need …
- A face mask
- Proof of Covid vaccination
- A certified (negative) antigen test
- Travel insurance to cover COVID-19 medical costs, full hospitalization, doctors’ visits, prescriptions and air ambulance/medevac
Before going to SFO, I uploaded my vaccination card for online check-in. At SFO, I donned my mask. My passport was checked. On arrival in Belize, I was asked for my Covid vaccination card. That’s all! I got the impression that Belize is so eager for tourist dollars that they aren’t worrying about the official Covid requirements. Will this be the pattern throughout my upcoming travels? Stay tuned!
Great to see u travel again
Bon Voyage Nick! Sounds like you’re off to a good restart! Sarah & Tim will fill us in tomorrow when they come to dinner to celebrate the Equinox! A&R
Great to hear rom you again. Keep on trucking,
Good to hear how and where you are. Stay well, enjoy the journey!
Hi Nick, nice to see that you’re traveling again. Fun post!
Great to see you back on the road — and in the air — again!
The COVID requirements for my Sept-Oct ’21 trip to Scotland, Paris, Barcelona & Andorra were SUPPOSED to be very strict… but the reality was that I only showed my negative test & vaccination card at LAX on my outbound flight. I was either “waived through” or there were no checks at all other points of entry.
During my upcoming journey, I’ll report on the inconsistencies between published Covid policies and their enforcement.
Good travels, Nick! Been to Belize several times, mostly the southern Toledo District, Punta Gorda town. Practically untouched by tourists and tour-related commercialism. Went with a 68-year old woman poling up the Columbia River to a cocoa and cacao farm in the jungle where, at the time I was there, her 72-year old husband with the help of nearby farmers were planting maize in an ages-old traditional community style. Stab a hole in the earth with a stick, drop a few kernels in, cover and repeat, every couple of feet down a row. Real stuff, not a demonstration. Stayed there several days. Was taken by an old-timer on a hike through jungle to Lubaantum, Mayan ruins from the classic (circa A.D. 800) period with distinguishing mortarless construction. No one there but a couple of archaelogists. It was 2018. Don’t think I’ve had a more authentic experience before or since. I love Belize.
Stunning!
Hi Nick:
I’m glad to see you in Central America. Lots of beautiful country and interesting travelers. Back in 1992 I spent six weeks traveling by buses–32 total–from Cancun to the Panama Canal. Spent a week in Belize mostly snorkeling in one of the cays (sp?). I think it was Cay Caulker if memory serves. It sounds like you’ve visited far more interesting places in the country. For me, crossing borders on foot–la frontera–was always a strange experience. All the best to you. Also: I think your mode of travel is a whole lot more authentic than Rick Steves’ excursions.!
Jeff