One year in Kosrae
On March 6, 2020, United flight #155 delivered me to Kosrae. Little did I know that I’d be spending an entire year here — and probably a few months more.
In my entire life, I’ve never stayed in one place this long. As a child, my family took yearly road trips to visit grandparents who lived in other states. As a teen, I often rode my bicycle more than 25 miles a day. I went away to college and returned home at every school break. For work, I regularly flew coast to coast for clients. Since 2008, I’ve visited more than 100 countries, averaging about 5 miles per hour for 13 years.
Living in Kosrae for the past 12 months, I haven’t traveled more than 10 miles. That’s how far it is from one end of this little island to the other. Although I’ve left Kosrae a few times by boat or by swimming. I haven’t been more than 500 yards from shore. The past year sets a personal record for staying in one place.
Surprisingly, I haven’t felt constrained, restricted or restless. I’ve stayed busy by teaching and volunteering. In my “free” time, I’ve combed most of Kosrae’s beaches. I’ve explored much of Kosrae’s forested interior. I’ve been to all the churches, shops and restaurants. I think I’ve met about half of Kosrae’s 6000 inhabitants.
The fact that I’ve been content with a simple life on a small island may have something to do with Kosrae’s environment. In previous posts, I’ve tried to show you how kind, generous, honest and happy the Kosraens are. Here are two short videos to show you (again) what an extraordinarily beautiful place this is.
Kosrae is a young island — only about a million years old. There’s been just enough time for a fringing reef to form around the island. The reef is 100-400 yards off shore. Between the reef and the beach is a quiet lagoon. At high tide, the water in the lagoon is about six feet deep and at low tide, just a few inches. The reef absorbs the heavy surf from the big Pacific swells, leaving the lagoon as calm as a swimming pool.
Kosrae’s interior is an untouched wilderness. There are few hiking trails. To explore Kosrae’s forested valleys, the easiest way to travel is by following a stream. Here are a few photos from hikes in the Okat Valley and the Mutunte Gorge.
During the fall semester, I taught Algebra, Geometry, Chemistry and Marine Science for Kosrae’s high school This semester, I’m doing science seminars at the College of Micronesia. The topics we’re studying concern Kosrae’s history and environmental issues. Here are some of my recent Powerpoint presentations:
Thanks to no viruses or hay fever, I haven’t sneezed or coughed in the past year. Eating local fruits, vegetables and fish while getting lots of outdoor exercise, I’ve lost about 10 pounds. I am often asked if I plan to stay here forever. The thought has crossed my mind. Although Kosrae is one of the most beautiful and friendliest places I’ve ever been, I can’t stay here forever if I’m going to achieve my dream of visiting every country in the world. Besides, I miss my friends and family back home.
Two weeks ago, I booked a reservation with United Airlines to leave Kosrae on June 7. I’ve made similar flight reservations previously which were cancelled by United without explanation. So, I have some doubt that this flight will go. Will the flight go? Will it be cancelled? Will I be able to reschedule? After a year in Kosrae, I’ve stopped worrying about pretty much everything. We’ll see what happens.
Nick, nice having good news from you. Dear I appreciate you on three accounts.
Firstly, you stayed in Kosrae for one long year, captured each moment of it and shared that richness with us making us envy of you and your pursuits.
Secondly, your passion to love nature. It is insprirational.
Thirdly, you have an immense energy to adjust with new people and new environment.
Above all, I respect and love you for not forgetting us at the time you were reaping the fruits of soltitude relfleccion.
Regards
Nice presentation, as always. Leads to all sorts of inquiries, though I don’t know if this is the forum for them. You mentioned eating local fruits and fish; have supplies been flown into the island during the pandemic? Is there still volcanic activity? Is sea level rise a major concern? Is it prone to major storms/typhoons? What is the reaction/feedback from Rotarians? And so on. Hope we can cross paths when you return to the land of viral pandemics, mass shootings and other accoutrements of “civilization.”
Hey Frank, to answer your questions …
A container ship from Guam delivers supplies about twice a month. This is how we get stuff like toothpaste, potatoes, spam, lumber and office supplies.
Kosrae’s volcanic activity ended about a million years ago.
The rising sea level is a major concern. The windward side of the island is losing a few inches every year. This problem is going to accelerate. Fortunately, Kosrae is a high island with peaks up to 2500 feet. Other island nations, like the atolls of the Marshall Islands and Kiribati, will be under water at high tide by the year 2100.
Because Kosrae is close the equator, we have frequent rain but typhoons are rare.
The most frequent question from Rotarians has been “Can we retire there?” The answer is “Yes, and Americans do.”
Kosrae is like a golden bubble, removed and protected from “civilization”.
Nick
All of them were great shows! Perhaps we can have the real thing here in Cascais sometime!
Marvin –
Thank you for introducing us to Nick’s blog. Let us know when Nick will be in Cascais and we’ll look into getting a ticket from SFO to LIS.
Nick –
Your reports give us a dreamy glimpse into a different life on Kosrae.
–Jeremy and Risa
I enjoyed your latest slide. Keep on ‘truckin! I’ll be interested to see what you’re doing next. Same old, same old with the pandemic, although I’ve received my latest 2 Prizer shots, Am enjoying a family vacation on Marthon in the Keys from 4/13 to 4/20, The best!
Kevin
Looking forward to Clear Lake this summer and maybe seeing you there and hearing your stories in person.
Hi Nick!
Nice reading your day-by-day news from Kosrae.! Are you sure to come back
right now? Situation around the world is still on “the high sea” due to the slow vaccination. If you come back it would be not easy to move around.
Every state is putting restrictions on entering or leaving the country in order to control the epidemic through mass vaccination which is slow because number of people to be vaccinated is huge. I’m sure you know what to do but
I feel to inform you about Europe and Africa.. By the way, thank you for your video and real life story!!
Big hug
Alex
Nick…as always your posts are most informative about a part of the world that few Americans have any knowledge of. I especially enjoyed your slide show of the interior exploration along the creeks.
Stay safe…and sane,
Bill
Thanks for sharing Nic! You have a fascinating life and a special talent for teaching. I hope they really appreciate you there.
Safe travels, whenever that might be,
Bonnie
Dear Nick: What an amazing opportunity you’ve had living on a Pacific island for a year. My time living in Samoa certainly broadened my world view and gave me many wonderful experiences to remember. Thank you for sharing your great blogs about island life. Good luck on your next adventure. I am really glad Amy introduced us! Take care, Lisa Shirtz