Northwest India

To escape the heat and humidity of New Delhi, we flew north to Kashmir at the foot of the Himalayas. When we deplaned in Srinigar at 1600 meters elevation, we breathed cool, fresh mountain air. Aaaah!

Our first day in Srinigar, we took a much-needed hike in the mountains. At the end of a road, we followed a path into the foothills of the Himalayas. There were no noisy tuk-tuks or honking cars — just the sound of the river — which was clean and free of garbage. We saw more goats than people. Shepherds invited us into their tent for tea. It was great to be back in nature again.

The next day, we wandered through cobblestone streets of the ancient city of Srinigar. Founded in the 6th century, this town saw its heyday from the 14th to 16th centuries under the Shah Mir dynasty and later as part of the Mughal Empire. Scholars and Sufi preachers established places of learning here. Later, Srinigar emerged as a hub for traditional Kashmiri handicrafts like the Kashmir shawl, made of pashmina and cashmere wool. What remains today are a hilltop fort, massive city walls, crumbling buildings, huge mosques and colorful, vibrant markets. Stella bought a scarf and exotic jewelry.

Most tourists come to Srinigar for the pleasure of living on a luxurious houseboat for a few days. We did the same: Cruising the smooth waters of Lake Dal, eating fine Indian cuisine, relaxing on our houseboat’s veranda, and viewing snow capped peaks at sunrise and sunset.

October is a good time to visit Srinigar. The tourists have all gone home. The weather is cool and refreshing. Occasional rains leave dustings of snow on the surrounding mountains.

Our next stop was the city of Amritsar, near the Pakistan border. Locally known as the “Berlin wall of Asia”, the Wagah-Attari border crossing is the only permissible land route for trade between India and Pakistan. Every evening, there’s a highly stylized “Retreat Ceremony” during which the flags of both nations are lowered and the gates are closed. It’s a magnificent spectacle, attended by at least 25,000 people. This ceremony has been held uninterrupted since 1959 (except during Covid). It’s a must see if you’re in Amritsar. The ceremony is both inspirational and comical — in a Monty Python sort of way. Click the video below to see this bizarre and amazing ritual.

Stella and I couldn’t decide whether this ceremony is meant to be taken seriously or if it’s just a spectacle to entertain domestic and foreign tourists. Despite the bravado, the jingoism, the taunting and the combative history between these two countries, the event seems to symbolize the brotherhood between the two nations.

After their performance, the soldiers posed for photos. I was impressed by the height of the Indian soldiers. They’re selected for their marching skills and imposing height, of course.

In Amritsar is one of most revered and holy sites in all of Sikhism: The Golden Temple. Completed in 1577, the Golden Temple rivals the Taj Mahal (1648) for beauty. Unlike the Taj Mahal, the Golden Temple is open 24/7, it’s full of pilgrims — not tourists — and admission is free. I’ve wanted to see this stunning building for years! Although this is a revered and holy place of prayer, the atmosphere is festive. As usual, everyone wanted to have their photos taken with Stella, who continues to be mistaken for a movie star.

We stayed at a homestay across the street from this temple and had a fabulous view of the Golden Temple from our rooftop balcony. I recommend the 4N Homestay for its ideal location and genuine hospitality. Be sure to book one of the rooms on the top floor.

Our 30-day Indian tourist visas are about to expire and are not extendable. So, we must keep on travelling. Our plan is to go west. Stay tuned!