Return to Paradise

Although I’ve seen a lot of our planet, I haven’t found anyplace I like as much as an isolated little island way out in the Pacific called Kosrae. It’s part of the Federated States of Micronesia. Very few people have heard of this place — much less been here. In a good year, it only sees about 1200 tourists. Why so few? Kosrae is a long way from anywhere, and there aren’t many flights to this place.

Why do I like Kosrae so much? Read on.

Because of its silhouette, Kosrae is known as “The Island of the Sleeping Lady”.
Perhaps Disney had Kosrae in mind when they created the mythical Ti Fiti island in Moana?

I got to know Kosrae when I was marooned here during Covid from March 2020 until July 2021. When I left Kosrae, the folks at the high school and the college said “When — not if! — you come back, bring some teachers with you.” So I did. While in the US, I talked two adventurous friends into coming to Kosrae with me: Liz Van Volkenburgh and her daughter Alice Lippitt. Alice teaches full-time at the high school.

Yours truly with Liz and Alice on arrival at Kosrae International Airport

The drive from the airport into town takes about 15 minutes. This music video is the best way that i can show you what Kosrae looks — and sounds — like.

Driving from Okat to Lelu

Although I’d been away for a year and a half, not much changed while I was gone. I moved into the same faculty housing apartment that I occupied back in 2020 and 2021.

My apartment in Tenwak

Kosrae’s beaches are still pristine.

One of Kosrae’s many beaches

As soon as I took off my shoes , I put on my mask, snorkel and fins.

A pair of Eagle Rays at high tide on the reef flat right outside my door

The locally grown produce is still as delicious as ever.

A typical breakfast

The national telecom service is still advertising 3G service.

The villages have service, but most of the island doesn’t.

As before, I travel by foot and by thumb. Hitch-hiking often leads to a free meal — like the barbecued ribs and chicken that these gentlemen offered me. Kosraean hospitality hasn’t changed a bit.

Eating well is a priority on Kosrae. I will feast for weeks on what the fishermen sell for about $2 a pound. There’s nothing like freshly caught wild reef fish cooked in Kosraean pepper and lemon sauce.

I arrived in Kosrae just in time for a major event that happens every four years. Here’s a short clip of the opening ceremony of the Inauguration, including Kosrae’s state anthem. Subtitles are in Kosraean with English translation afterwards.

Inauguration Ceremony for the new governor and his cabinet
Kosrae State Anthem
We are the people of Kosrae.
We are free, teach us good things.
We are clean, strong, righteous
With one beautiful island.
Let us lift up our precious island.
From the youngest to the oldest,
We are one family.
Never give up, go forward Kosrae.

For the inauguration, the dress code required that everyone wore flowers.

My “official” reason for returning to Kosrae is to teach at the College of Micronesia. Kosrae’s campus has about 100 students. Eleven students are enrolled in my SC-111 Environmental Studies.

My students taking their first quiz

Since I’m teaching only one class, I’m not earning much. So, the college supplements my income by supplying me with all the coconuts I need.

My coconut bonus

With a light workload, I have time to explore the natural wonders of Kosrae.

A boardwalk through a mangrove swamp

Last weekend, Alice, Liz and I took a field trip to the Ka (Terminalia carolinensis) forest on the north side of the island. The Ka tree is endemic to Kosrae. This is the largest remaining Ka forest on Earth.

.With Alice, Liz and Tholman Alik (Director of the forest’s environmental authority)

I have a contract with the college to teach for the spring semester. That’ll take me through May. After that, I hope to use Kosrae as a starting point for adventures to six Pacific nations on my bucket list: Kiribati, Nauru, Samoa, Tonga, Tuvalu and the Marshall Islands.