![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dateline.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\nI spent only 48 hours in Samoa, but it was enough time to do two important things:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Make a pilgrimage to the final home and resting place of Robert Louis Stevenson<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Enjoy the spectacle of Samoa’s national independence day on June 1st.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
On my first morning in Samoa, I hiked from Apia up to Villa Vailima, the home of Robert Louis Stevenson. He was a famous 19th century Scottish novelist, poet and travel writer who suffered from coughs and fevers. With the success and notoriety that came from writing Treasure Island, Kidnapped<\/em> and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde<\/em>, Stevenson took his physician’s advice, left the cold, damp weather of Scotland and went off to find someplace more salubrious.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/01-1024x425.jpg\")
<\/a>Villa Vailima, Robert Louis Stevenson’s home in Samoa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n From Europe, Stevenson traveled across the US and chartered a yacht out of San Francisco. After two years of sailing around the South Pacific, he settled on Samoa. There, on a warm, sunny hillside with a view of the ocean, Stevenson built a grand home where he wrote, entertained, and lived with his family. Many of his later works are based on sailing adventures and tales from the Pacific islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/02-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>RLS’s writing desk<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/03-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>My guide in the great hall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/04-1024x845.jpg\")
<\/a>One of two fireplaces in Samoa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/05-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>Bedroom adjacent to RLS’s study<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n Today, Stevenson’s home is beautifully restored. I had a personal tour with a guide who shared anecdotes about Stevenson that I’d never heard. Walking barefoot on the wooden floors, seeing first editions of his books, and sitting at his desk gave me goosebumps. Having written a book myself while living on a Pacific island, I can relate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/07-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>The swimming pool near RLS’s home<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/06-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>Trail to the top of Mount Vaea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/08-1024x707.jpg\")
<\/a>View down to RLS’s home from the top of Mount Vaea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/15-1024x714.jpg\")
<\/a>Papapapai Waterfall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n Stevenson’s estate is surrounded by waterfalls, natural swimming holes and lush forests. <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/09-1024x411.jpg\")
<\/a>RLS’s tomb and his famous Requiem<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n Although Stevenson came to Samoa for his health, living here may not have extended his life significantly. He died of a stroke at the age of 44 and is buried on top of Mount Vaea, elevation 472m. On his tomb is a bronze plaque with his self-written epitaph, composed in 1880, (Click the photo to zoom in.)<\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/11-1024x625.jpg\")
<\/a>Looking up to see Robert Louis Stevenson<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n I wasn’t the only tourist who climbed Mount Vaea to pay my respects. Here’s our group celebrating Stevenson’s life and his works, looking up and wishing him all the best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/21-1024x691.jpg\")
<\/a>Clock tower in downtown Apia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/22-1024x667.jpg\")
<\/a>Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/23-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>Interior of the cathedral<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n The next morning, I accidentally attended the funeral of a well-loved village leader in Apia’s magnificent cathedral. After the service, I was warmly welcomed by the mourners and told about the all-wood, inlaid ceiling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/36-1024x707.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.zoa.com\/2023\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/32-1024x776.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nI timed my visit to Samoa to be there on June 1st — Samoa’s Independence Day. This is a national holiday. There were festive events all over the island with colorful costuming and enthusiastic singing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n