Camagüey
An Andalusian city
April 8, 2013: Settled in 1516 by farmers from Seville, this city between two rivers feels more like Andalusia than Cuba. As the first Spanish families prospered and expanded, they built fine houses − and even palaces − but without urban planning. So Camagüey grew in a haphazard manner creating a labyrinth of narrow winding streets, squares, plazas, markets and churches.

With some streets too narrow for cars, Camagüey is a wonderful city to explore on foot. The city is full of architectural gems from Spanish colonial to Art Deco.


The tiled roofs of Camagüey

Iglesia y Hospital de San Juan de Dios

House of the Caryatids
The best museum in town is the Museo Provincal Ignacio Agramonte. The building is typical of the grand structures found throughout the city. It was built in 1848 as cavalry barracks for Spanish troops. In the early 20th century, it became a fine hotel. Today it houses rooms full of beautiful antiques and a collection of Cuban paintings, considered to be the second best in the country.

In Camagüey, as in every other city in Cuba, I stayed in a casa particular which was arranged by my previous hosts. Nothing could be easier than to get off a bus in a new city and to be greeted by a friendly hostess who takes you to her home.


Museo Provincal Ignacio Agramonte

Quiet, narrow streets

More of the labyrinth

Casa Los Vitrales
Being a pedestrian city, Camagüey's sidewalks, streets, squares, cafes and plazas are busy from sunrise until midnight, which makes for a lively, friendly place.

I've been impressed by how safe Cuba feels. At no time have I felt uncomfortable walking home from a restaurant or a music venue late at night.


Dominos in the morning

Cafe in the afternoon

Jazz in the plaza at night
Camagüey is not your usual tourist destination in Cuba. But it was a great place to stop for a couple of nights on the long bus ride from Santiago to Trinidad.